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Walk in the heart of the old village

Accueil > “Culture & heritage” > The village > Walk in the heart of the old village

Walk in the heart of the old village

A walk in the heart of the old village is essential in Mougins. Lose yourself in the age-old alleyways and enjoy this melting-pot of charm, history and art.

Place du Commandant Lamy

From the Lavoir, head for the fountain that has stood at the intersection of Victoire and Commandant Lamy avenues since 1894. On your left, you’ll notice the “Au Rendez-vous de Mougins” restaurant, formerly the Hôtel de France. On the second floor, it houses a vaulted room that served as a courtroom in the 15th century, in accordance with the 1438 Charter stipulating that Mougins residents would be judges in their own commune.
Opposite, the former post office, built over the cistern and outbuildings of an oil mill, adjoins the “Le Bistrot” restaurant.

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A few years ago, this site was used as a stable, housing the horses that contributed to the life of the old mill in the impasse du Valat. The last olives were pressed here in 1918, and the mill was converted into a home. Christian Dior was one of its illustrious occupants.
At the far end of the square is the former Town Hall, built in 1954 on the site of the former Chapelle Saint- Bernardin des pénitents blancs, built in 1618.
Heading towards rue du Badier, you’ll notice the façade of no. 41, decorated by Master Paul Daemen, a talented painter and portraitist who lived his last years in Mougins.

Rue du Badier

Henri de Badier was Treasurer General of the Generality of Provence. This “outside the walls” alley originates beneath the Chapelle Saint-Bernardin (formerly the town hall) and ends at the covered passageway of the former Saint-Jacques hospital. There was a flour mill and a “blood” oil mill opposite one of the village’s last bread ovens. At the corner of this street and Rue des Migraniers, stands the house of Maurice Gottlob, who was a ranger and, above all, a well-known painter in our region. He had set up an art ceramics factory there.

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Take the passageway into rue Maréchal Foch. On your right, at no. 78, you’ll find a statue of St. James the Greater in the wall of the former hospital, adjoining General Catroux’s home. The circular wall will accompany you to the Place du lieutenant Isnard.

Place du lieutenant Isnard

Formerly known as “Place des Peyroues”, this was where the stills for distilling “aîgue Ardent” were set up. One of the village’s two fountains and a drinking trough for horses were located here. At no. 26, magnificent paintings dating from 1510 were recently discovered (frescoes depicting the White Penitents). To your right, rue de la glissade. Let yourself be tempted…

Rue de la Glissade

This is the old Mougins gateway to Le Cannet, Antibes, Valbonne and Vallauris. The Mouginois gave it the name “Roumpe Cuou” because of its steep slope. Under the covered passageway, you can see an old press screw from an oil mill (now rue des Vanniers). Turn left into Rue des Isnardons, which runs along the west side of the “Vaste Horizon” hotel, once home to Picasso and other artists vacationing in Mougins.

Vaste Horizon hotel

It was in this former hotel, one fine morning in 1936, that Picasso set down his suitcases and first fell in love with Mougins. He took Paul Eluard, Jean Cocteau, Man Ray and Rosemonde Gérard with him, and together, against the beauty of the Lérins islands, they created a future filled with new modes of expression. The story goes that one night, when the genius took hold of him, Picasso painted the entire walls of his bedroom. Alas, the artist was unrecognized, and the disgruntled hotel owner forced him to make amends.

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A few cans of white paint did the trick. This did not discourage Picasso, who settled permanently in Mougins, near the Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Vie, where he ended his life. Continue your visit by heading back up towards the village towards Place des Patriotes. At the fountain, turn left into rue Commandeur.

Rue Commandeur

This street was laid out in the glacis that encircled the Village. Here you can admire an art studio before returning to the Place du Lieutenant Isnard. From this square, you used to enter the town via the Porte Sarrazine and the Porte des Isnardons. The latter, demolished in the 18th century, was located at the top of today’s Rue du Colonel Roustan.

Rue du Colonel Roustan

In the Middle Ages, it was the end of the road coming from Grasse and passing by the old fountain. It was named after “Colonel Roustan”, a Mougin hero who lived in the “Santa Lucia” villa. The house was also home to Roland Petit, Zizi Jeanmaire, Yves Saint Laurent and Paul Anka… On the way up, you’ll pass along the remains of the old ramparts and covered walkway, to arrive at Place des Mûriers.

Place des Mûriers

The house where Commandant Lamy was born (no. 36), the former tower was home to a barber-weaver who had the formidable honor of shaving, among others, the kind-hearted bandit Gaspard de Besse, featured in Maurin des Maures, who was roughed up in Aix-en-Provence in front of the weeping population. Nearby, an artist’s studio has opened its doors. Place des Mûriers, formerly Place Saint-Pierre, was surrounded by ramparts. On the right, rue du Moulin with the former oil mill known as Moulin Isnard, transformed into a restaurant by master chef Roger VERGE.

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The ruined mill had been restored by Roger Vivier, the designer who created the Queen of England’s shoes for her coronation. In the cul-de-sac, the sheds, cistern and wine cellars of “La Salle”, former abbey house of the abbots of Lérins, Lords of Mougins. At the far end of the square is the old “Béranger” oven, where residents were required to bake their own bread.

The Sarrazine Gate

Further on is the Placette de l’Eglise, where you’ll find the village’s only gate that has stood the test of time. It is improperly known as the “Saracen Gate”. The adjoining house was successively the former town hall and school. A room on the first floor was used as a prison.

Place de l’Eglise Albicocco

It was an old cemetery inside the walls. It was then moved to Place Sainte-Anne and dug out to build a water reservoir in the basement, fed by a “fire pump” which returned water from the Horts de la Salle spring to Mougins (1st water supply in Mougins). On the right, the Presbytery, rebuilt before the Revolution on the site of a cesspool and former “blood mill”. Opposite, an ancient defensive tower that stood against the ramparts. The church of Saint-Jacques-le-Majeur is the perfect place to take a moment to reflect.

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The oldest part of the church you see, with the door to today’s sacristy surmounted by a stone cross, was probably the former Seigneuriale chapel of Sainte- Marie. The church was built in three stages, beginning in the 11th century as the church of St. James the Greater. A second nave was added and renovated in the early 19th century.

The parish church of Saint-Jacques-le-Majeur

The sacristy dates to the 11th century. The church was enlarged in the 18th and 19th centuries, and the bell tower was raised. The church features gilded cardboard statues of St. Joseph and St. Mary by the 18th-century Ecole de Grasse, and a 15th-century crucifix. The stoup and baptismal font date from the 18th century. The altar stone in the choir was cut in the 11th century. Outside the church, take a few steps back and enter Rue des Lombards.

Rue des Orfèvres

It was an alleyway backing onto the ramparts inside the village. It was home to many craftsmen, including a gold beater, Bernardin Bareste. In 1666, he was certainly the only goldsmith in the region, and minted gold coins for the Abbey of Lérins. Today, you’ll still find many craftsmen.

Rue des Lombards

On your right, you’ll see the entrance and main courtyard of the Maison Abbatiale des Abbés de Lérins. Jacques Brel is said to have stayed at n°71 while taking his pilot’s license. Finally, take rue Honoré Henry back to the starting point.

Rue Honoré Henry

It owes its name to Honoré Henry, former Mayor of Mougins. After reaching Place du Commandant Lamy, head for Place des Patriotes.

Place des Patriotes

The Lavoir, built in 1894, was used by tenacious washerwomen until the 1970s. It hosts exhibitions all year round and a Provencal crib in December. Opposite, the Boutique du Maréchal Ferrant and the former municipal abattoirs on the ramparts have been transformed into an art gallery and bar, whose vaulted room is well worth a visit. The square itself was built on the former Sainte-Anne cemetery. The chapel of the same name, which stood opposite the “L’Amandier” restaurant, has unfortunately been destroyed.

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From the viewpoint indicator near the statue of Commandant Lamy, the famous son of Mougins who gave his name to the capital of Chad, “Fort Lamy”, now “N’djamena”, you can admire the view that extends from the Esterel over the Pays de Grasse and the Mercantour mountain range to the Bay of Cannes.

This is where we end our tour of the piton, which we hope will have enabled you to relive a little of Mougins’ past.

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For more anecdotes and information, book a guided tour with one of our tour guides or download our audioguide on your smartphone. Click here for more information